Tony Luke's, McNally's get deserved shout-outs in today's Times
The New York Times sent its cheap-eats restaurant reviewer to various baseball stadiums to assess ballpark food, and he filed this mostly accurate report from Philadelphia:
... [T]he prize for vernacular food probably goes to Citizens Bank Park,
the four-year-old home of the Philadelphia Phillies. Most of the action
takes place in Ashburn Alley (named for the Hall of Famer Richie
Ashburn), a brick promenade behind center field where fans can
practically hang over the visitors’ bullpen or dine under the giant
Liberty Bell sign that lights up and rocks back and forth when the
Phillies hit a home run.
Ashburn Alley is home to hoagies,
Chickie & Pete’s crab fries (French fries dusted with Old Bay
seasoning) and two of the city’s respected cheese steak purveyors,
Rick’s Steaks and Tony Luke’s. Tony Luke’s had the better cheese steak
of the two (though their other locations are notably superior). Even
better is Tony Luke’s juicy roasted pork and provolone sandwich [see photo above; dare you not to start salivating],
dressed with tender broccoli rabe, as good a meat sandwich as there is
in the majors.
Also not to be missed is the Schmitter sandwich
from McNally’s, an outpost of an 87-year-old Germantown tavern at the
end of Ashburn Alley. It’s not named for the Phillies legend Mike
Schmidt, but rather, I was told, after a long-gone McNally’s customer
who always ordered it with Schmidt’s Beer, the now-defunct Pennsylvania brand.
The
Schmitter packs, from top to bottom: melted cheese, a generous squirt
of a “special sauce,” griddled salami, more cheese, sliced tomato,
fried onions, griddled steak and another slice of cheese, just to help
keep the beef in place. It was the unhealthiest thing I encountered on
my cholesterol-gathering trip, an unholy alliance of meats, cheese and
mayonnaise tucked into a Kaiser roll. It was also impossible to stop
eating after the first bite.
Hard to argue with any of that, really, though of course McNally's is not in Germantown but Chestnut Hill, on Germantown Avenue. That aside, I do have one other quibble: For a city that prides itself on certain specific culinary offerings, it's a travesty that the only soft pretzels served at Citizens Bank Park are the abominations known as SuperPretzels. The country's very best soft pretzels, crisp on the outside, chewy on the inside, with just the right amount of salt to pack a little zing, are baked here in Philadelphia, but we have to settle for teeth-rattling, flavorless twists of barely warmed, iron-like dough? Please.
And, hello, when is anyone going to wake up and realize that there's a mint of money to be made by selling TastyKakes at Citizens Bank Park? | PRS